Styro Innovations has moved from the Polyurea coating to a user-friendly DIY epoxy coating. This is a 2-part epoxy coating that can be rolled on like paint. This epoxy is safe for EPS foam and creates a surprisingly strong shield around the foam.  The epoxy is transparent and the builder has many options on the colors they choose during the process.

 

There are many options available with applying the epoxy resins,  please see the list below for Styro Innovations proven by "trial and error" process to use on EPS foam. You may find a better way to apply the resin and would appreciate the feedback to help our customers.

 

1.  CAREFULLY remove the EPS forms out of the shipping containers. They can be very tight inside the boxes and its possible to break them if you pull too hard.

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2.  Lay the pieces out on the floor to get an idea on how your project will go together.

 

3.  Set up your work area giving yourself some space and use sawhorses or something for a workbench to work from. You will be applying the epoxy on the pieces separately and will need room to set them aside while the epoxy cures. The epoxy is low VOC and can be applied inside without the chemical smell however, this is your choice so please do your homework on epoxy resins to make sure this is the right decision for you. If you decide to add color to the epoxy you can do that now if you desire however, you can add color anytime after the second coat or you can simply paint it before the last coat. There are many you tube videos on how to get really cool designs with mixed colors. Keep in mind the epoxy is transparent and will cure crystal clear until you add color either in the resin or paint it to your liking. If you choose to paint it before the last coat of epoxy resin you will get a deep professional look under the resin.

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4.  You can apply the epoxy with either a brush or a roller. I recommend the small 4-inch rollers so you can get to tight places. This is for you to decide but you don’t need expensive brushes or tools, as the epoxy will level out on the surfaces. The brushes and rollers will be thrown away after you use them. Also, wear some rubber gloves because it gets messy and sticky on your hands.

 

5.  When you are ready to start you will EVENLY mix part A and part B together. Stir the 2 together until you get an even cloudy mixture. You should mix small amounts instead of all at once. There is a window of time that you need to get the epoxy on the EPS forms before it starts curing. I recommend starting with one cup of part A and one cup of part B until you learn what you can get away with. I personally never mix more than 15 ounces at a time and use 2 separate measuring containers to prevent accidentally mixing before I add A and B together. This method gives plenty of time to do one coat to 3 to 5 pontoons on all the surfaces. You will discover that Part A is slow to pour because the thickness, You can set that container in the sun or some hot tap water to pour easier.

 

6.  If you use a small roller, it will fit inside the holes about 2 to 3 inches, it is not necessary to cover the thru holes any deeper with no more 2 coats.  Its not a race to get the epoxy on the pontoons before the epoxy cures because you have plenty of time. It takes me approximately 5 minutes to completely cover one pontoon part. I will mix a new batch about every 30 to 40 minutes until the pontoons are encapsulated inside the epoxy resin.

 

7.  Please make sure you position the pontoons so they don’t stick to each other or anything else while they cure (about 24 hours). After the first coat cures, its time to glue the cut seams together with tubes of clear liquid nail, power grab or equivalent. (It may be included depending on what kit you order)  Don’t sleep on this step; this will strengthen the forms considerably as you will add epoxy resin across the glued seams to bridge together. (Try not to get any glue in the holes so the PVC tubes will slide thru without interference)

 

8.  After the glue joints dry you are ready for the second coat of epoxy resin. This will go a lot faster this time and let that second coat cure. You will start to see a significant difference in the strength of the pontoons. Now you are ready to paint (if you don’t want it the white EPS color). It is now safe to use any paint you desire because the EPS foam is fully protected.

 

9.  After you get the pontoons the color or colors you want it is time for the 3rd coat of epoxy resin. You can make your decision if you feel its strong enough depending on your preference. All of my models are no more than 3 coats thick with out any issues. Depending on what kit you purchase you will have enough resin to do a 4th if you want it even stronger. You also have options to put a coat of fiberglass resin over top the epoxy with awesome results. You can also put the traditional bed liner paint on it too. I spray my floors with flex seal for a non-slip surface. There are many options to get creative.

 

10.  This is your project and you can build this however you see fit. I try to keep the boat design as light as possible for transport. The new design will use one decking board for the floor if you are installing a swivel seat and trolling motor. (Not necessary if you are oaring)) Please note; I purchased my deck boards from Menard’s so please note that is the thicker of most decking boards, so the design may reflect. It is best to view pictures and videos on the website and let your building and design skills go from there.